![](/uploads/1/2/6/6/126665744/332102455.jpg)
I will be shooting this one, a Reising M50 submachine gun, once the final NFA. Following are a few pics of the stock/crack before repair. On the inside of the stock I drilled a very small hole (1/16') at bottom of the crack and about the same length as the crack that would allow the epoxy to flow up and through the crack from the inside. I also used a little epoxy on the visible topside. I figured it would help stop the crack from propagating further down and also reinforce the wood.
Thanks for the 2 referrals, I'm sure that would do a great job but I personally don't think its worth it because the gun is very cheap anyway (Its a Baikal).If it was something expensive I would certainly look towards sending it away for repair.Thanks for the link stevebwales I may give that a try depending if I can slightly open the crack.Also, thanks for the advice bluebarrels, I'm not sure if I want to go to that extent to fix it thoughOnce again, thank you everybody for your help. You've all been very helpful! Proper wood glue, Evo stick wood glue is one of the best.
Open the crack a little with a small wedge like a knife blade if you can, 1mm would be perfect. Don't worry if you can't, just force the glue in from the bottle nozzle up close and tight. Clamp in a vice, protect the wood of course, wipe off the excess with a damp sponge. Leave over night. It will be stronger than the original.There was an article in sporting gun by the gunsmith there, he uses super glue.
![Stock Stock](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/53_vortec/20131227_162513_zps4477a45a.jpg)
Imho, proper wood glue is far superior. Its an easy job with the split where yours is.Looking at the pic I would say the metal work is too tight in there which probably pressurised it. Might be worth just relieving that area with a sharp blade for a better fit whilst your at it. Edited April 6, 2013 by turbo33. HiBefore trying a diy repair talk to dennic at #### I am sure he will give you the best advice on how to go about repairing the crack. I do a fair bit of wood working and in my opinion you have to stop the crack from continuing drill and put a plug at each end then try forcing some Gorilla glue into the crack with a hypodermic syring I have used this method with furniture and it has worked but not under the pressure of a gun stock.But please have aword with Dennis firstMick Edited April 6, 2013 by Mickthemiller.
I had a similar crack on a semi a few years back a mate of mine sorted it for me,he cut across the crack in sections,about 1/4 of an inch between each cut,he then glued wooden lollipop sticks into the cracks and allowed to dry,he then trimmed the lollipop sticks flush and stained it never got and worse after that,maybe not that pleasing to the eye,but it stopped the crack in its tracks military armourers use to use this method on SLR's BBWe just threw the old damaged stocks out and fitted new ones from the spares cupboard!
By Randy BarkleyThis is how I repaired an obviously serious break in the stock of a 1956 Winchester Model 88 rifle (1) using a WEST SYSTEM® 101 Handy Repair Pack.I soaked the broken ends in acetone for about 5 minutes and brushed with a tooth brush a couple of times to remove any gun oil from the wood surface. Besides the breaks, the grain on the back stock splintered (2).I started with the major breaks first. I mixed some walnut sawdust with a mixture of 105 Resin/205 Hardener and added a little 406 Colloidal Silica filler.I gave all of the surfaces a thick coat of epoxy (3). The 30 minute working time was needed, as aligning some of the splinters in the checkering was difficult (4).It was tricky to get clamps to hold. The surface is round, the epoxy is slick, and I used plastic wrap to keep the clamps from adhering to the stock (5).Although some of the clamps are big, very little clamping pressure was used to avoid driving too much epoxy out of the joints.
![Gun Gun](/uploads/1/2/6/6/126665744/907709753.jpg)
I cleaned up the epoxy that did squeeze out with a paper towel.With the stock back together, I put a 105 Resin and 205 Hardener packet in warm water before mixing to increase its flow rate. The mixed epoxy was poured into the raised grain cracks and then lightly clamped (6).The repaired raw stock came out looking very good. I used dental tools to clean up the checkering and used furniture stripper on the old polyurethane finish. A fine sanding with 400 grit paper completed the stock preparation (7).I sealed the stock with 20% tung oil and 80% mineral spirits. Then I sanded it 6 times with 50% tung oil and 50% mineral spirits. I waited 1-2 days between each application and sanding. Lastly, I used rubbing compound to knock down the gloss and bring out the satin finish (8).
The finished gunAfter one box of shells, the finished stock is still holding solid. The worst side of the break and the repairs look great. I don’t think it could look any better given the nature of the breaks. I am very pleased with the outcome. The shattered gun stock to be repaired with a WEST SYSTEM 101 Handy Repair Kit.2.
Besides the breaks, the grain on the back stock splintered.3. I gave all of the surfaces a thick coat of epoxy4. Aligning some of the splinters in the checkering was difficult.5. I used plastic wrap to keep the clamps from adhering to the stock.6. The mixed epoxy was poured into the raised grain cracks and then lightly clamped.7. A fine sanding with 400 grit paper completed the stock preparation.8. I used rubbing compound to knock down the gloss and bring out the satin finish.
![](/uploads/1/2/6/6/126665744/332102455.jpg)